DIY Chevron Headboard
To make a chevron striped headboard you will need:
- 1×4 boards in whatever style wood you like (we used old Poplar barn siding)
- 1-1/4 inch screws
- Various pieces of scrap wood to build a frame and center supports
Step 1: Build the frame.
Our headboard will measure 30 x 60 for a queen bed. You will need to adapt yours to the size of the bed and your preferred height. Create a rectangular frame with three center supports. Use material at least two inches wide to give yourself plenty of room to place screws later. When finished, you will have two horizontal pieces (ours is 60 inches long) with five vertical pieces, including the two ends (ours are 26 inches high). This frame will be the support that you screw the chevron stripe boards to — the vertical center lines are where the wood V’s come together.
We used pocket holes and screws to create stronger joints.
Step 2: Cut the boards to create a striped pattern.
I enlisted my husband’s help to cut the boards. I don’t mix well with table saws and geometry! Boards will be cut at a 45-degree angle at both ends.
- Cut one end from the first board at a 45-degree angle. Working from the left side of the frame,
- Center the first board’s 45-degree cut on the second vertical line of the frame, so it angles back to the outer edge. Mark the end and cut it at a 45-degree angle, too,
Hint: We used a carpenter’s square to test and double check the angle of the boards laying on the frame.
The next board will fit between the second and third vertical supports on the frame … and so on, until you’ve created one, horizontal chevron stripe. We measured and cut the first four pieces to create one continuous “stripe” — the basis for the rest of the headboard. Note: It’s important that this first row is as correct as possible. It will be your reference for all of the others!
- Cut and fill in the rest of the pieces (both ends cut to 45-degree angles) until your frame is full.
- Tack them in with a pin nailer (or small nails hammered in) from the front to hold everything in place, then flip the entire piece so you can screw it together from the back side.
Step 3: Screw the boards to the frame from the back side.
We made sure to countersink the screws, first drilling a pilot hole with the countersink. We were at the ends of the boards and wanted to ensure they wouldn’t split.
Here’s the finished back side of the headboard — and yeah, we gave the new drill a good workout. It was definitely up to the job. To finish off the project, we add a trim board around the outer edge on the front. Just attach it to the wall with brackets or screw into the studs.
And now it’s sweet and stylish slumber!
I am a writer, blogger, wife and homeschooling mother of three. I love wide open spaces, cooking, gardening, decorating, travel, vintage treasures, sunshine on my shoulders, and bare feet.